New York Songlines: 31st Street

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John D. Caemmerer Westside Yard

Train yards for the LIRR and MTA. Named for a New York state senator who headed the transportation committee.

Plans for a new Manhattan sports stadium envision putting it here, with the train yard remaining underneath.

The High Line

Running across the railyards here is a disused elevated railroad that was used to transport freight along the Westside waterfront, replacing the street-level tracks at 10th and 11th avenues that earned those roads the nickname "Death Avenue." Built in 1929 at a cost of $150 million (more than $2 billion in today's dollars), it originally stretched from 35th Street to St. John's Park Terminal, now the Holland Tunnel rotary.

Partially torn down in 1960 and abandoned in 1980, it now stretches from Gansevoort almost to 34th--mostly running mid-block, so built to avoid dominating an avenue with an elevated platform. In its abandonment, the High Line became something of a natural wonder, overgrown with weeds and even trees, accessible only to those who risked trespassing on CSX Railroad property.

In 2009 it was opened to the public as New York City's newest park; it truly transforms its neighborhood and hence the city. This section of the elevated line, however, has yet to be transformed into a park, apparently awaiting some decisions on what's to happen to the railyards.


S <===           10TH AVENUE           ===> N

South:

Lincoln Tunnel Offramp

Releases traffic from the busiest vehicular tunnel in the world, handling 120,000 vehicles a day. Opened in 1937, it was the first major tunnel project to be completed without a single worker fatality.



Corner: Claytor-Scannell Control Center. Controls all train traffic in and out of Penn Station; Claytor was an Amtrak executive and Scannell was with the MTA.

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Mid-Town Mart Building

Block (450 W. 33rd): This building-- built in 1970 as the Westyard Distribution Center-- is home to both the New York Daily News and public TV station WNET. It used to be topped by a skating rink known as Skyrink--now moved to Chelsea Piers.

Lincoln Tunnel Onramp

Tracks to Penn Station


S <===           9TH AVENUE           ===> N

South:

360: T.S. Ma, large Chinese restaurant, is in the corner of this building, called 21 Penn Plaza in this area's singularly unhelpful numbering system. Further down the block is Grainger business-to-business hardware.

330: Was Bonat Cafe, described in a 1940 restaurant guide: "Mme. Bonat's cuisine is famous among those who want good French bourgeois cookery, yet can only afford to pay a moderate price for it."

Technical Career Institute

320: Educating people for tech jobs since 1909.














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North:

General Post Office

This 1913 building, New York's main post office, was designed by Charles McKim of McKim, Mead and White to complement the classical design of the old Pennsylvania Station, now destroyed. Noted for its collonade of 20 53-foot-high Corinthian columns which support the famous inscription, “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.” (This is not the Post Office's official motto, but its placement here-- based on Herodotus' description of Persian couriers--has made it an unofficial standard.) The building--officially renamed the James A. Farley Building, after FDR's postmaster, a New York native-- also bears the names of noted figures in the history of mail; on this side you can find such postal luminaries as Cyrus of Persia, Augustus and Charlemagne.

The building is scheduled to be transformed into a new rail terminal to replace the warren-like Penn Station under Madison Square Garden. The retrofitted post office building is to be renamed Moynihan Station, commemorating Sen. Daniel Patrick Moynihan, who led the push for the change.


S <===           8TH AVENUE           ===> N

This block between 8th and 7th has been dubbed Joe Louis Plaza, though the boxer fought at an earilier incarnation of the Garden.

South:

Corner (416 8th Ave): Charley O's Skybox Bar & Grill; sports bar for the Garden.

254: Greater Metropolitan Radiology

252: Penn Video





With its looming walls, barred windows and warnings about PCBs, asbestos and high voltage, this Fire Department staging area is one of the scariest buildings in Manhattan.










230: The Flower Depot

220: The Soup Spot; Cafe 31 sports bar and restaurant



210: Capuchin Monastery, Church of St. John. Franciscan friary, built 1974 for the Roman Catholic church on 30th Street. The sculpture on the facade, Christ in the City by Benoit Gilsoul, is said to be the largest outdoor religious sculpture in New York City.




Corner (370 7th Ave): North Fork Bank is in 7 Penn Plaza.

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Madison Square Garden

Eight blocks from Madison Square, where the original version was located, this 20,000-seat arena, the home of the New York Knicks, Rangers and Liberty, is the fourth building and the third location to bear the name. Joe Frazier defeated Mohammed Ali here March 8, 1971; Nadia Comaneci scored a perfect 10 here March 28, 1978.

Jimi Hendrix, Elvis Presley, Frank Sinatra, Bruce Springsteen, Madonna and Pope John Paul II have all performed here; the Grateful Dead played here 52 times, a record broken by Elton John in 2001. John Lennon's last performance was here, as a surprise guest at an Elton John concert, in 1974. The Democratic conventions of 1976, 1980 and 1992 were held here.

Many people think of Madison Square Garden, however, as one of New York City's greatest architectural crimes-- because it was built by tearing down the old Pennsylvania Station, a glorious 1910 structure modeled on the Roman Baths of Caracalla, considered to be architect Charles McKim's greatest masterpiece. (Ironically, McKim partner Stanford White's greatest work was the second Madison Square Garden, demolished in 1925.) Protests by architects and preservationists did not prevent the station's 1963 destruction--though the loss did help spark landmark laws to protect other treasures. Statues of eagles from the station can be seen on the east side of the Garden.

In the basement of the Garden is the new Penn Station, one of Manhattan's two major rail terminals--along with a 48-lane bowling alley. Architect Louis I. Kahn died of a heart attack at the station in 1974--his unidentified body remaining in the morgue for several days.

The Garden's office tower is the location of Disney/ABC radio flagship WABC--this is where Rush Limbaugh and Sean Hannity, among other right-wing broadcasters, do their shows. WPLJ radio is based here too.


S <===           7TH AVENUE           ===> N

This block between 7th and 8th has the honorary name of Father Mychal F. Judge Street.

South:

Corner (371 7th Ave): Southgate Tower Suite Hotel; built 1929 as the Governor Clinton Hotel. Inventor Nikola Tesla stayed here, 1930-34.

142: Firehouse, built 1946, is the home of Manhattan Engine Company No. 1, which traces its history back to the Northern Liberty Engine Number 42 volunteer unit, at No. 1 Centre Street. Father Mychal Judge was the fire chaplain here until he became the first officially recorded victim of the September 11 attacks.

136: Il Campanello

132: Greely Arcade Building, aka Penncom Plaza. Includes the Cosmic Coffee Shop.

128: Was the address of the Corrective Eating Institute.

120: Helena Collection; wigs

112: Manhattan Institute; a health workers school, not to be confused with the right-wing think tank of the same name.

100 (corner): Closeout Zone used to be Nobody Beats the Wiz.

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North:

Corner (393 7th Ave): This was the Matthew Bender Building, named for the legal publisher, but they moved to Newark. Now it's home of Fuse, which bills itself as an alternative to MTV.

135: St Francis of Assisi Monastery and Church. Father Mychal, a celibate gay man, a recovering alcoholic and by all accounts a remarkable person, lived here. Includes St Francis Bookstore.

131: Part of the Monastery. Note "Deus Meus Et Omnia" inscription-- the Franciscan motto, "My God and My All."






119: Weber's discount store used to be Gimbel's warehouse; most of the sign is still visible on the side of the building.

115: Jack's 99-Cent Stores

101 (corner): Pret a Manger ("Ready to Eat"), sandwich chain, is in the Greely Square Building.


S <===           6TH AVENUE           ===> N

South:

Corner: Tony's Pizza




56: O'Reilly's Pub & Restaurant




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S <===           BROADWAY           ===> N

South:

Corner (1232-1238 Broadway): Was the Grand Hotel (1868), once one of New York's grandest accomodations. Now home to wholesale joints like Design Time Watch Inc. Note the mansard roof, a French affectation that allowed Parisians, whose buildings were limited by stories, to pretend that their top floor was an attic. A thoughtless owner painted over the marble facade, in violation of the landmark law.

32: Bollywood Bar & Restaurant

30: A loft above Gerardo's Luggage Repair was the site of a recurring lap dance party-- an innovative way to escape the increasingly restrictive rules for strip clubs with a permanent location.

14: A Con Ed substation is being built here, despite neighborhood protest.

12: Brilliant Lighting Fixture Corporation

Hotel Wolcott

4-10: The London Independent called this the best budget hotel in the continental United States. It's in an impressive 1904 French Empire building by John Duncan, who designed Grant's Tomb. The interior is remarkably intact. Guests here have included Edith Wharton (1907), Buddy Holly (1958), Titanic survivor Dr. Washington Dodge (1912) and Harry Leon Wilson, author of Ruggles of Red Gap and editor of Puck, who is credited with introducing the term "flapper."

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North:

39: Greeley Square Post Office

31: Guan Xiong Merchandise Wholesale Center; nice Second Empire building.






Herald Square Hotel

19: This hotel (formerly the Hotel Clinton) was built as the offices of Life magazine--not the photo weekly, but a sophisticated humor magazine whose name Time bought in 1936. (The word "Life" repeats on the facade.) This is where Charles Dana Gibson created the Gibson Girl. The hotel is a beautiful 1893 building by Carrere & Hastings, marred by a clumsy top-story addition. The golden cherub above the doorway-- flanked by the words "Wit" and "Humor"--is known as Winged Life, and appeared regularly in the magazine.

17: Max Salko Textiles

9: David Rugs Inc. is in The Eccles building.

5: Minar, Indian known for its dosas; on the 3rd floor is the Heimer-Brier Co., "makers of holiday handbags." Also at this address is Rebecca's Hidden Chamber, which bills itself as "The Polite Dungeon. The place was busted in 2008 for allegedly offering more than spankings.


S <===           5TH AVENUE           ===> N

South:

Corner (295 5th Ave): The Textile Building, built in 1920, is a showroom for the bed, bath and linen industry. Creative Bath is on this corner.

12: The Hotel Chandler is in a 1907 Beaux Arts building. Formerly the Hotel Le Marquis. The hotel bar is the styley 12:31.

22: In 1960, this was the Claredon Hotel.

Corner (132 Madison): The Christian Herald Association supports social ministries like the Bowery Mission.

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North:

303: Veratex, high-end bed linen

5: Restaurant Empire

11: New Kin Yip, Chinese take-out

15: Curry Express, though an old sign still advertises the Baltic Restaurant.


Corner (134 Madison): Backer Building


S <===           MADISON AVENUE           ===> N

South:

Roger Williams Hotel

Corner (131 Madison): Formerly Roger Williams Apartments; presumably named for the founder of Rhode Island, who was a champion of religious liberty. Author Henry Miller stayed here when he was living in New York in 1935 pursuing Anais Nin. He finished his novel Black Spring here.

30: Madison Avenue Baptist Church Parish House; the AIA Guide calls this 1906 building an "offbeat gem," Romanesque with Middle Eastern motifs.

32: J. Harounian, rugs

36: Time Out calls J.B. Prince Company the "best spot to stock your kitchen." Also (or formerly?) Neman International ("importers of fine Oriental rugs"); Ebrahim Aziz & Sons, Persian and Oriental Rugs.

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Corner (135 Madison): Designer House Inc., Harooni International Design; rugs.

25: Apadana Persian Antique Rug Gallery

29: I.G. Moghadam Rug Co.

31: The Park 31 building houses Farsh International Oriental Rug Importers; also S & Z Cafe, falafel and gyro joint.

41: Wholesale Oriental Rug Building features Majan International

Corner (470 Park Ave S): Canaan Variety Food Cafe is in the Schwarzenbach Buildings --named for Schwarzenbach Looms, makers of Darbrook Silks. Check out the charming clock on the Park Avenue side--it's surrounded by bas relief leaves, caterpillars and butterflies, and is topped by a wizard and a blacksmith. The Darbrook Silks mosaic above is pretty cool, too.


S <===           PARK AVENUE SOUTH           ===> N

South:

Corner (459 Park Ave S): Cafe on Park

112: Hai-Lan Chinese-American Cultural Society; "a New York nonprofit organization providing lectures, seminars and workshops in Chinese art, music, philosophy and traditional customs."

114: Cyber Moon Theater, "shows for all nations." Affiliated with the Hai-Lan Society.

118: Umi Sushi

120: Hotel 31, unpretentious and affordable. Formerly the Lexington Residence Hotel; originally built c. 1870 as the Dunsbro apartments.

Corner (178 Lexington): Le Rendez Vous Cafe

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North:

Corner (461 Park Ave S): The Brown Companies building has a Cosi branch.



109: New York office of Jews for Jesus, which argues that conversion to Christianity is compatible with a Jewish cultural identity. Maybe, maybe not, but even some people who accept that premise find this group kind of creepy.

113: The Pump Restaurant, health-fad chain




Corner (180 Lexington): Anita's Deli & Grocery


S <===           LEXINGTON AVENUE           ===> N

South:

Corner: Hong Kong Noodle Sushi, Chinese/Japanese

142: Red Ball Garage


Corner (446 3rd): Kips Bay New York Public Library, built in 1971 to a Giorgio Cavaglieri design.

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North:

151-155 (block): Windsor Court Apartments; 31-story complex, built 1988. Generic, but how often do you see a gazebo in Manhattan?





S <===           3RD AVENUE           ===> N

South:

Corner (449 3rd): Moonstruck diner

240: Church of the Good Shepherd; an Episopalian congregation founded in 1860 as the Church of the Reconciliation, a mission of the Church of the Incarnation on Madison. This is the church's second building on this site, consecrated in 1904. Adopted its current name in 1967.

248: The Greentree apartments were built in 1982 on top of the neighboring church's parish house, a Gothic building from 1901.

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North:

201: Kids Cuts


I don't have anything to say about these townhouses, but it's a really sweet block.



251: Marchi's, discreet old-school Italian




S <===           2ND AVENUE           ===> N

This intersection was the center of some of the worst fighting during the Draft Riots. On July 16, 1863, rioters in the surrounding buildings waged a gunfight with police in the street, which ended only when the police stormed the buildings, resulted in major loss of life.

Kips Bay Plaza

Block: The two 21-story exposed-concrete slabs were built 1960-65 to an I.M. Pei design.

There's a strip mall on the 2nd Avenue side that includes the Loews Kip's Bay multiplex.





Is your favorite 31st Street spot missing? Write to Jim Naureckas and tell him about it.

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